Vietnam - Danang Easyrider Tour Part 1

After spending 2 nights in Hoi An, it was time for me to continue with my journey further deep into Central Vietnam to reach the forbidden city of Hue. I really loved this quaint little town of Hoi An, what with its charming yellow houses and shops, beautifully lanterns-lit by nightfall, and its relaxing vibe the town somehow emitted. Leaving this once-vibrant trading port cannot be done without a heavy heart.

Exploring the streets of Hoi An for the last time

My favourite, Cau Lao

Originally, my plan was to enjoy myself in Hoi An until the end of my trip where I will take my flight back to KL from Danang International Airport. However, a chance encounter with a Danang Easyrider when I arrived in the train station introduced me to another city in Central Vietnam, the Imperial City of Hue. At first reluctant (I very much wanted to spend as much time in Hoi An as I can), I was somewhat converted with promises of scenic views along the ride on the cool, Harley-like motorbike to take the 2 days, 1 night tour. Well, I wasn't disappointed.

That morning of my second last day in Vietnam, Chien, my guide for the trip, came by my hotel and off we began our journey. On our way to Hue, we first have to pass by Danang, and boys, aren't the beaches there pristine white. While I didn't get down and have some fun time in the beach (it was freaking hot and the heat was unbearable even around 9 am), from afar, the beach is clean and serene, with umbrellas and coconut trees decorating the stripe of sands. In my opinion, Danang will soon be the to-go-to destination for beaches.

The pristine beach of Danang

This is merely posing only as I can't ride...

In less than an hour drive, we made our first stop of the day at Monkey Island. Known as Son Tra locally, there is one pagoda that offers stunning views of the sea. The ride up to the Linh Ung Pagoda is just an easy motorbike ride up and worth all the efforts for you get to experience magnificent scenery up there. Plus, there is a 67-meter tall statue of Guan Yin made of marble overlooking the sea.

The view of Danang as we're leaving

Son Tra is very famous with the locals as on the day I was there, it was crowded with Vietnamese on tour. They were taking photos of the sea views as well as the grand statue. Vietnamese are really into domestic tourism.

Linh Ung Pagoda

Guan Yin overlooking...

...such a scenery day in, day out

After spending around 20 to 30 minutes in the pagoda, it was time for us to continue with our journey. The saying, it is not the destination but the journey that matters, holds ground here for along the ride, you get to see nothing short of picturesque landscapes.

It must be getting repetitive, but, aren't these views amazing???

Next stop, Hai Van Pass. Well, technically, it is more like a stretch of mountain road that connects Danang with Hue. If you are wondering what so special about this mountain pass, it is its beauty that really captures your heart. As with every scenery along the ride, the views here are simply beautiful. Standing on top of the trail overlooking the South China Sea is a fulfillment itself. And the temperature at the top of the road is much cooler rather than the sweaty heat when in Danang.

Damn, how I wish I'm there now...

We stopped for a cup of coffee and tea while enjoying ourselves with the chilling weather. Something I should probably mention here is that there are a lot of war bunkers along Hai Van Pass left by the Americans during the Vietnam War. Everywhere in Vietnam is a constant reminder of the terrible tragedy of war.

Hai Van Pass

The leftovers of the Vietnam War

Part 2: Lang Co Island for seafood, Suoi Voi Park, and reaching Hue

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Hoi An - Japanese Covered Bridge

The last of the attractions that I had visited in Hoi An is the Japanese Covered Bridge. Probably the most famous landmark in Hoi An, the Japanese Covered Bridge or Chua Cau is the must visit when you are in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. A visit to this ancient town is not complete if Chua Cau is not part of the itinerary.

The Japanese Covered Bridge, early in the day where tourists are still sleeping

Originally built in the 17th century by the Japanese community in the port centre to serve as a link to the Chinese quarter in the town, the bridge now attracts uncountable number of tourists to Hoi An. Besides being a bridge, its inside serves as a temple dedicated to the God of Weather. Back then, sailors would pray to the god, asking for calm sea during their sails.  

Altar to pay respect

A Vietnamese guide giving explanation of the bridge

A friendly Vietnamese woman

There is one mythical story associated with the bridge. According to legend, the bridge was built as a form of controlling the 'mamazu' dragon monster, whose head was believed to be in India and its tail in Japan. The legend goes that the movements of the creature's tail caused earthquakes in Japan and since Vietnam was on the back of the 'mamazu', the bridge was built to pin it down, preventing earthquakes in the country.

The architecture of the bridge is a good example of the Japanese design of the period. Over the years, the design of the bridge remains relatively faithful to the original style. You will notice that there is a statue of a dog and a monkey, each at one side of the entrance, to mark the initiation (year of the dog) and the completion (year of the monkey) of the construction of Chua Cua.

Arch entrance

Statue of the dog

Statue of the monkey

The Japanese Covered Bridge is not to be missed.

Chua Cua by night

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Hoi An - Hoi An Handicraft Workshop & Hokien Meeting Hall

Let's continue with the attractions in Hoi An that I've been to.

Hoi An Handicraft Workshop

This is a must go attraction in my opinion. However, you have to be there at specific time if you want to catch traditional performances staged for tourists to watch. According to the Wikitravel website, there are two daily performances at 10.15 am and 3.15 pm, except on Monday itself. It was the afternoon show that I happened to stumble upon.

Traditional dances

If my memories served me right, there were five performances in total. The first is the traditional instrument performance, followed by four song and dance segments of various ethnic tribes around Vietnam. All the performances are unique and entertaining, no doubt about that.

While the front hall of the house was used as the stage of the show, the back section is the place where handicrafts are showcased and hopefully, being bought by tourists. If you proceed to the first floor, you get to have a glimpse of talented artists stitching photos onto a piece of cloth. They are transferring the photos into a work of cross stitch and the results are gorgeous, almost the exact replica of the photos.

Lanterns, being Hoi An's signature look, are aplenty there

Talented cross-stitch artist bringing pictures to life...

...in cloth

Hoi An Handicraft Workshop is a must visit attraction in this UNESCO Heritage Site.

Hokien (Fujian) Meeting Hall

This meeting hall is quite popular among the tourists and it is understandable to see why. I have to admit, I have no idea what's the function of this communal hall. Is it like Khoo Kongsi back in George Town, Penang, a clan house? Or is it as its name suggested, a meeting hall? Even when inside the compound, I still have no idea which category this Hokien Meeting Hall fits into.  

Look at the Japanese tourists, mesmerized by its beauty

Regardless of that, I still find this assembly house very interesting, with beautiful architectures to boost about. Its famous facade is the usual pop up image when searching for the communal hall through the Internet. Here's some pictures of Hokien Meeting Hall.

The beautiful facade

Water fountain

Temple within the assembly hall

One of the exhibitions...

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Hoi An - Cao Lau

My most memorable dish throughout my Vietnam trip, besides the bowl-licking bun mam whipped out by The Lunch Lady in Ho Chi Minh City, is the signature noodle dish of Hoi An, cao lau.

Thick, flavourful broth, served with slices of roasted porks and dough fritters, handful of fresh herbs and vegetable covering the top of the bowl, it is such a typical Vietnamese cuisine, yet so delicious and famous in this ancient town.

Outside of the central market

My first taste of this delight was on my first day in Hoi An. I was in the central market, looking for potential stall to have my first cao lau. You'll notice almost every stall in the market have it as their own signature dishes, making it very hard to choose which to patron. In the end, I left it to faith to help me decide.

The stall I ended up having my first cao lau

And faith treated me well. It was so good that I wished I have a second helping, if not for my bloated stomach.

A must-try in Hoi An

On my last day in the town, I have another bowl of cao lau, at one of the stalls by the river bank, overlooking the scenic river view. While not as tantalizing as the first bowl, it compensates with beautiful views by the river.

Cao lau = VND 25,000 (about RM 4.00)
Non halal

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

You can read more about cao lau and how it is prepared here, an article by Robyn Eckhardt, author of the EatingAsia website.

Hoi An - Museum of Trade Ceramics & Tan Ky House

OK, back to my Hoi An story. Now that you what are the main attractions in Hoi An Ancient Town, here's some brief info on the one that I had visited during my stay there.

Museum of Trade Ceramics

The first attraction I visited was the Museum of Trade Ceramics. Located along the Tran Phu Street, this museum traces the origin and history of Hoi An and its function as a trade port back in the old days. 

Museum of Trade Ceramics

Many ceramic plates and vases, most of which are in fragments, of various origin points such as China and Japan, can be found on display here in the museum, reinforcing the importance of this quaint town as a trade centre back then.

Some of the ceramics on display

Model of trading ship back then

While the displays here are solid works to support Hoi An’s claim as a vibrant city in the 13th through the 17th centuries, the real deal of the museum is the building itself. This house was one of the six houses picked by the professionals for the Hoi An Town Preservation Cooperation Project to protect and restore the town’s valuable built heritage.   

Engraving inside the house

Besides the ceramics on display, you can also read about the process of the restoration works done to preserve the house. Of all the six houses chosen, only this house was altered its original function to become the museum. The rest remained as residences or shops.

The original roof tiles and pillars, replaced in the restoration

Tan Ky House

Generations of family have been residing in this Old House of Tan Ky, including the current one. Upon entering the front of the house, one of the family members will greet you with a cup of tea and ask whether you would like a tour of the house. History of the family as well as the house will be shared by the said family member to you, giving off a closer connection to it.

The living room of Tan Ky House

Tan Ky House is a blend of three distinctive architectural styles - Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese – making this old house unique of its own. Serving both a family house and merchant shop, the front part of the building is for meeting with travelling merchants while the back and the second floor of the house are for own uses.

The bedroom

The tour of the house is restricted to only the front area, the living room and the courtyard. While you can roam freely around the house, you will feel like intruding their lives for some of the elders are resting inside the house.

Another wall engraving, this time in the Tan Ky Old House

Not much photos were taken when in the old house. I don't feel welcomed, to be honest, nor I felt right to take photos of other people' houses.

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Hoi An - Main Attractions in Hoi An

Now that you have a glimpse of Hoi An in the previous entry, now let us look at the attractions in this quaint town. It goes without saying that the beautifully preserved colonial buildings are the main draws of Hoi An Ancient Town. Most of these French-inspired structures are given a new lease of life, transforming into either tailor shops, souvenir stalls or restaurants, and to enter one of these requires nothing other to be a potential customer.

Entrance coupon with five tickets at its side

While strolling around this UNESCO World Heritage Site is free, a nominal amount of VND 90,000 (equals to RM 14.00, more or less) is charged per coupon if they want to purchase the coupons to visit some of the historic sites. Each coupon consists of five tickets and each ticket entitles you to enter one historic site grouped together with other similarly themed attractions. In short, one ticket is for one attraction chosen within a group of similar structures.

Here is the lists of attractions in its own groups for you to choose from. Those in bold are the one I had visited.

Landmarks of Hoi An
Japanese Covered Bridge (Chua Cau), at the end of Tran Phu Street
Quan Cong Temple, 24 Tran Phu Street

Symbol of Hoi An, the Japanese Covered Bridge

Museums
Museum of Trade Ceramics, 80 Tran Phu Street
Museum of Folk Culture, 33 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
Museum of Say Huynh Culture, 149 Bach Dang Street
Hoi An Museum of History and Culture, 7 Nguyen Hue Street

Museum of Trade Ceramics

Old Houses/Clan Houses
Phung Hung House, 4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street
Quan Thang House, 77 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
Tan Ky House, 101 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

The interior of Tan Ky family house

Congregation Halls
Cantonese Assembly Hall (Quang Dong), 176 Tran Phu Street
Hokien (Fujian) Meeting Hall (Phuc Kien), 46 Tran Phu Street
Chinese All-Community Meeting Hall (Trieu Chau), 157 Nguyen Duy Hieu

Hokien Meeting Hall

Hoi An's "Intangible Culture"
Hoi An Handicraft Workshop, 9 Bach Dang Street
Traditional Theatre, 75 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
Swan Boats, around the main river area

Musical performances at the Hoi An Handicraft Workshop

I'll talk more about the sites I visited in the following posts.

*TO BE CONTINUED*