Hoi An - An Introduction

After Cholon, it's time for me to head back to Saigon Youth Hostel to take my luggage for my 6.00 pm train ride to Danang for my next stop, Hoi An, which is about 30 minute from the city centre of Danang. Located in the Quang Nam province in Central Vietnam, Hoi An Ancient Town is an UNESCO World Heritage Site that everyone should visit when they are in Vietnam.

Once a bustling trading port back in the 15th to 19th century, Hoi An resembles its past life the most by day, where tailors are busy taking measurements for suits and dresses, tourists are flocking from one attractions to another and restaurants are buzzing with activities. However, comes night time, this little town truly becomes alive and magical as its well-preserved colonial buildings, surrounded by colourful bouganvillas, are beautifully lit by paper lanterns. Such a sight to behold.

As for now, enjoy some of the photos I have taken during my stays there.

One of the many tailor shops here in Hoi An

Well-preserved colonial buildings are aplenty...

By the riverside in the afternoon...

One blue mansion Hoa Van Le Nghia Temple in the ancient town

Bountiful bouganvillas by the street

The same river view, by night fall...

Shophouses are lit by lanterns here in the town

The famous Japanese Bridge, the symbol of Hoi An

Early morning of Hoi An where number of tourists is at its lowest

Another couple having their wedding shoot that I stumbled upon...

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Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

It is a tiring, 18-hour train ride, more or less, leaning to the more, from Ho Chi Minh City to Danang train station and the ticket price for the soft seat is VND 706,000 (about RM 110.80). You can find a much cheaper mode of transportation (and faster too) through as train service in Vietnam is not reliable for its punctuality and speediness. Chances are you will arrive much later than originally planned. However, it makes up with beautiful scenery, especially from Danang to Hue. Therefore, if you are rushing for time, avoid taking train.

Ho Chi Minh City - Cholon

Now, back to my Vietnam trip. I'll try to finish it before the new year arrives.

So, after my amazing lunch with The Lunch Lady, I was at a loss as to what to do. I mean, it was about 12 noon and I basically covered all there is to explore within the downtown of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). And if you remembered my rather vague itinerary, there is no plan at all on what to do in the afternoon before boarding my train to Danang.

Main bus station in Cholon

I considered going to Cu Chi Tunnel but due to the distance itself and also the time restraint, I have to give this must-visit place a skip. While walking aimlessly around the city, passing by numerous landmarks, I inevitably ended back at Ben Thanh market. This is also the site of the main bus station, and taking it as a sign, I decided to go to Cholon, or Chinatown, to spend my remaining afternoon there. The bus fare is VND 4,000 (about RM 0.60) one way.

Street of Cholon

Street kids posing for camera

Once reached Cholon, I walked to Binh Tay market which is about 5 minute from where the buses are. For those of you who want to shop for souvenirs cheaply in Saigon, there are no better places than Binh Tay market. Unlike the tourist-influenced Ben Thanh market where prices are highly inflated, here at Binh Tay market, you can find souvenirs being sold in wholesales in a much affordable and local-friendly price.

Binh Tay market

Just like Ben Thanh market, you can find almost anything here. From kitschy items like key chains to clothes and accessories, from daily essentials such as vegetables and meats to ready made foods, you name it, chances are you will find it here at a cut-down rate too. In short, Binh Tay market favours comparably against Ben Thanh market, in my opinion.

Lots of choices for you to buy your souvenirs...

While exploring the streets of Cholon, I stumbled upon a beautiful church called the St. Francis Xavier Catholic Church. Vietnam has a lot of captivating churches and I had already seen two of them in downtown Saigon (Notre Dame Cathedral and Tan Dinh Church). Now, add in this St Francis Xavier Church as well. Maybe it is the fact that there are many Christians in the country. Or maybe it is its colonial past. Somehow, their churches are sights to behold.

St. Francis Xavier Church

While admiring the church, I met a Chinese traveler, Jasmine. We decided to go to the Thien Hau Temple, a famous Chinese temple in Cholon. She heard great comments from some travelers on how beautiful it is and all and I'm intrigued by it, so we both ended up heading there together.

Thien Hau Temple

Thien Hau Temple is dedicated to Tian Hau or Mazu, the goddess of the sea. According to Jasmine, she noticed that many temples in Vietnam are worship grounds for Mazu during her exploration around the country. We asked a tour guide (who was bringing a group of Malaysians) about it and he told us that many Chinese Vietnamese came to the country by sea. When they arrived safely in the country, they often gave their thanks to Mazu, building temples dedicated to her.

About 3-ish to 4-ish, I have to head back to my hostel to retrieve my luggages for my ride to Danang and Jasmine wanted to go to the Saigon Zoo. We parted to our separate ways in the bus station, wishing each other a safe trip.

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Ho Chi Minh City - The Lunch Lady

When I travel, I don’t put too much priority on food itself. As long as my stomach is satisfied, I’m OK with it. That’s why there is barely any photos of foods I had for the first two days.

However, things about to change as this post is dedicated to one famous hawker stall brought to fame by celebrity chef, Anthony Bourdain, of No Reservation, and her name is Nguyen Thi Thanh, widely known by her moniker, the Lunch Lady. How the story goes? Well, Anthony Bourdain was in Vietnam scouting for good food for his TV show and he was introduced to the Lunch Lady and the rest is history, as the saying goes. The Lunch Lady’s life will never be the same.

The unassuming stall turns out to be national delight

Without the help of Anthony Bourdain, the Lunch Lady definitely will not reach a global audience like what she’s experiencing now. Located at a secluded junction less frequent by tourists, her regular customers are mostly locals and nearby workers. Now, add in Anthony Bourdain’s fans to her list of satisfied customers.

The Lunch Lady, with her big, welcoming smile

There is no fixed menu for the Lunch Lady but rather a unique setting where she’ll serve different noodle soup everyday. It was Thursday when I went for lunch at the Lunch Lady and on every Thursday, she serves Bun Mam.

Bun Mam, what a delicacy...

Freshly made spring roll to accompany the main course...

I can’t guarantee whether hers is the best in Ho Chi Minh City as it is the first and only time I had tasted it. But I can definitely vouch for the fact that it is one of the best meals I had in Vietnam. In fact, writing this entry makes me drooling for this national treasure, with its thick and bowl licking broth, juicy eggplant, shrimp, and pork slices.

That's how bowl-licking it is...

There is not much regret or missed opportunities in my 1-week Vietnam trip but I definitely wish I had gone to the Lunch Lady more frequently to try out its other today’s specials. Total spending for the meal: VND 40,000 (about RM 6.30).

*TO BE CONTINUED*

Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

According to some websites, the Lunch Lady’s daily specialties are of the following:

Mondays: Bun Thai

Tuesdays: on rotating basis between pho bo, pho ga, bun moc, banh canh, and mi Quang

Wednesdays: on rotating basis between mi ga tiem, bun ca ri and bun thit nuong cha gio

Thursdays: Bun Mam

Fridays: bun bo Hue

Saturdays: banh canh

Sundays: hu tieu nam vang

The stall is located at 23 Hoong Sa St., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. I would strongly suggest you to take either a scooter or a cyclo to take you there instead of walking which was what I did. Unless you enjoys walking, the 30 minutes plus walkathon is not that advisable. 

Ho Chi Minh City - Saigon Saigon Bar

It has always been my intention to go to one of the many rooftop bars in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) and with so many selections to choose from, you are bound to leave some amazing gems untouched, waiting to be explored in the next visit. Such is my case with so few nights set in the city.

I had been doing my researches months before my trip and I came across a number of widely-acclaimed rooftop bars in the city. Each of these eateries/bars in downtown Saigon offers different experience and city views and this makes choosing a lot harder. However tough it may be, I managed to make my decision and after my 2 hours city tour, I went to the ninth floor of the Caravelle Hotel to have a refreshing sip at Saigon Saigon Bar.

Caravelle Hotel at the background

Saigon Saigon Bar welcomes you...

A little bit of history about the hotel thanks to the great tool known as the Internet. Opened for the public for the first time on Christmas Eve in 1959, Caravelle Hotel had become the center of communication during Vietnam War where embassies as well as communication stations made their bases there to report back to their home countries of the status of the war. Back then, with its 10-storey, it was the tallest building in Saigon. While the glory is no longer there what with the skyscrapers gracing the skyline, Caravelle Hotel  still packs quite a sight.

The sun was still up shining brightly when I was at the bar

As for the bar itself, it is its charm that set Saigon Saigon Bar from the rest of the rooftop bars in the city. With its mere nine floors up, you are away from the hustle and bustle but your view of the city is still far from miniscule, giving off the feeling that you are still part of the crowd. Sitting by the balcony overlooking the scooters reigning the streets, with the sun setting right at the background, nothing can end the day more perfectly than this. 

Sitting idly while watching the crowds go by...

As the sun goes down...

...the sky's palette is transforming beautifully

During my visit to the bar, there were barely a crowd which is an oddity but this makes it even better for you get to choose the table with the best view, or at least, second best. Maybe it was still early, maybe it was the weekday. For whatever reasons it may be, I was happy to have the whole place by myself.

Wonderful reviews are said about the cocktails in Saigon Saigon Bar but being a cheapskate, I opted for the cheaper but refreshing La Rue to cool down the heat of the day. As I watched the sun bidding farewell, I thought, what a wonderful way to end my first day (officially, second). 

Complimentary snacks accompanied my La Rue

My last stop for the day? Ben Thanh night market.

Bidding you a good day

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Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

Saigon Saigon Bar is located at the ninth floor of Caravelle Hotel. Famous for its delicious cocktails, drinks in the bar are rather pricey, though, bear in mind that you are paying for a beautiful view of the city as well as the relaxing atmosphere.

Ho Chi Minh City - City Tour in a Motorcycle

On my first day (technically, second, but screw technicality) in the city, I had already visited many famous landmarks of the city that by the time I came out of the War Remnants Museum, it was just late afternoon, around 4 pm. With no plan in my mind other than to go to a rooftop bar for a sunset drink, I was back to the Independence Palace where the next two hours were spent touring around Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), thanks to Vins, my motorcyclist tour guide. 

Vins, like many Vietnamese, travels in his trusty motorcycle and uses his transport as a source of income by working as a local guide. Our chance encounter happened earlier in the day when I visited the Independence Palace. He asked if I'm interested to tour around the city with him but since the day was still young and I wanted to explore around by feet, I declined the offer. However, when I was back later that day, he was still there and remembered me. So, I took his offer and off we went cruising around downtown Saigon.

So, here are some of the highlights I was brought to:

1) Saigon River

Saigon River is not in my top priority of places to see in HCMC but thanks to Vins, I managed to catch a glimpse of the majestic river. After seeing it, I made plan to catch the sunrise from the river the following day but sadly, I failed to wake up in time for it. More to come...

Saigon River

It is quite scenic along the river

Ho Chi Minh City - War Remnants Museum

Every city has its own tale to tell and for Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), it always revolves around years of war it went through. Everywhere you go, chances are you will see some leftovers of war in your surroundings. The military aircraft and tank in the Independence Palace. The French architectural influences availably seen in the old buildings, for example, the Ben Thanh market, Notre Dame Cathedral and Saigon Central Post Office, caused by years under the conquer of France. The War Remnants Museum with its exhibitions of the aftermaths due to Vietnam War.

War Remnants Museum

Everyone knows the terrors of wars but there is nothing as effective in showcasing it better than the War Remnants Museum for the museum serves as a constant reminder of the brutal horror the Vietnamese went through over the past few decades. This museum is indeed the best place to learn about Vietnam War and how their lives were changed due to the war.

However, you should be warned that most of the exhibitions here are not meant for the weak of hearts. Do not be fooled by its modern structure or the military vehicles on display within its walled court to think that it is just another museum cashing in on the country's horrific history.

Some of the machineries employed during Vietnam War

Photos of demonstrations against Vietnam War held around the world

Inside the building, exhibitions ranging from heart-wrenching photos of wasted lives and suffering victims to deformed children due to the chemical bombs released onto the country during the war to weaponries used by the militants will both invoke sadness and fury. Sadness to see such unnecessary sacrificial of lives and anger over the manipulative and greedy politicians that allowed such crimes to happen in the first place.

Gas masks used by soldiers to protect themselves from toxic exposures

Innocent lives shattered due to Agent Orange used in the war

Many lives were sacrificed, all because of human greed for control

War is nothing but a tool of oppression of human right

Yet, not all of the exhibitions are sombre for some offers promises of a better tomorrow and glimpses of hope. That  the humanity spirit will triumph in the end for even with the dark past, Vietnam is still able to overcome it and moves towards a brighter future. Its people are still friendly and kind when they are not expected to be anything but grim and bitter. This, in itself, a victory of life.

Vietnamese cities rebuild itself after the war, better and stronger, just like its peoples

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Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

War Remnants Museum opens from 7.30 am to 5.00 pm with lunch break at 12.00 pm till 1.30 pm. The entrance fee is VND 15,000 per person. Be warned though that there are many photos of deformed children and deaths at the exhibitions. It might not be suitable for pregnant women and those of weaker hearts.

Ho Chi Minh City - Saigon Central Post Office

Another landmark of the city that is within close proximity of the Independence Palace as well as the Notre Dame Cathedral (in fact, it is just opposite the church) is the Saigon Central Post Office. Unlike our central post office at Dayabumi Complex in Kuala Lumpur (nothing special about it), the building that houses the post office is simply majestic and grand. 

Saigon Central Post Office

Constructed when Vietnam was still part of the French Indochina, the building bears similarly colonial architectures many buildings in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) still exhibit. A little trivial fact for you guys. This Saigon Central Post Office building was designed and constructed by none other than the famous Gustave Eiffel, the man behind the iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris, France!

The interior

Massive map decorating the building

I spent a good hour or two in the building, writing postcards to be sent to my friends back home. It was so syok (for lack of better words) to do my postal activities in such a beautiful and atmospheric post office.

I wish our post office can be as grand and enchanting as the Saigon Central Post Office.

I curi snapped this photo of two Vietnamese ladies in their traditional costumes

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Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

The opening hour of the Saigon Central Post Office is from 7.00am to 8.00pm. If you are postcards enthusiasts or philatelic, there are many choices for you to choose from in the structure, so fret not.  

Ho Chi Minh City - Notre Dame Cathedral

Just about one block away from the Reunification Palace (or Independence Palace, whichever name suit your preference), I then proceed to my next destination, the Notre Dame Cathedral. This is one of the few famous churches in  Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) and among the most beautiful in Southeast Asia, in my opinion, though I have yet to fully explore every corner of the region. 

The Notre Dame Cathedral

Also known as the Saigon Notre Dame Basilica (there are often many names attached to one building, just like the Independence Palace/Reunification Palace), it was established by the French colonialists back when Vietnam was one of the French conquests. 

I won't bore you with its history since I myself am not too familiar with it (if you are interested, you can always refer to its Wikipedia page here). While I was there, I came across a number of couples having their wedding shoots taken with the basilica as the background and you can see that this historical structure is well-loved by many Vietnamese. 

I stumbled across 3 couples having their wedding shoots taken there

Not only couples want to have their wedding pictures taken there, tourists too want to have a shot with the beautiful structure.

Profile shot of some travellers...

Here are some random shots of the building:

The back of the church

Lastly, of me with the Notre Dame Cathedral.

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Sharing is caring. A word of advice and a piece of information.

The church is close and only open during Sunday Mass at 9.30 am. Therefore, I was unable to have a look at its interior as I was not in the city on Sunday. If you want to attend its Sunday Mass, plan your trip properly.

*Update* Apparently, even if you visited during weekdays, there is a side door that you can use to access into the cathedral if the main gate is closed. I'm not too sure whether this piece of information is real or not as I myself just found out about it. Please let me know if this is doable or not.